North Korea – Literally, a Stone’s Throw Away!

That is Phil and I literally throwing a stone at North Korea’s land.  This small tributary from the Yalu river is all that separates Dandong, China from the DPRK and this little area is quite a popular tourist destination (basically known as ‘the closest you can get without getting shot’).  We were amongst lots of Chinese with their family, some South Koreans, and perhaps people from other Asian countries; everyone wanted to get as close a look at NK as they could.

Below are some of the shots I got with my camera zoomed fully at 270 m.  I felt like we were observing wild animals from a distance.  The North Koreans were just working in the fields with scythes and harvesting crops on cattle drawn carts. You can see the fence keeping us out and them in as well.

Photo Below:  Some women observing us for a few seconds then getting back to work.  The gap between these women’s world and China’s women, let alone Westernized women!

Photo Below:  Here is a shot that shows just how far away we were, and how close I got using my zoom lens.

Before we made our way to this spot, we climbed The Hushan (Tiger Mountain) Great Wall, the far Eastern end of the Great Wall of China. This is the most easterly known part of the Great Wall of China.  In 1992, a section of wall was renovated and is open to the public, forming a popular tourist attraction. The wall runs for about 1,200 meters over Hushan. It starts 15 km north east of Dandong city, directly beside the border between China and North Korea. The wall climbs steeply up to a height of about 150 metres before descending on the other side of Hushan and finishing at a car park.

Below are some of my photos from the trek.  It was a hot day and we were a bit hungover but we felt much better after the climb, and the views were worth it.

Photo Below:  Phil is obviously feeling the heat as he flips the bird to a photo. West is trooping along.   His father drove us to the starting location and waited for us at the back end.  Took about 1.5 hours to hike the whole thing, with photo stops. Not much of a challenge compared to the Great Wall areas around Beijing.  In the photo, to the left of the tributary is China, the right is NK.

Photo Below: From the summit of Tiger Mountain, looking down over the river, I zoomed in to this small NK ‘village’.  One gets the feeling of going back in time when observing places like this.  That’s one way I would describe my experience with being so close and seeing just a smidgen of the way people live over there.

Photo Below:  Of course the scenery over there was quite pristine and beautiful.

…After our hike and the stone’s throw away episode, we took a speed boat ride into NK waters and then had dinner at West’s parents home…photos from that next post…

Dandong Shopkeepers

Phil and I needed to get some water to bring back to the Dandong hotel after a heavy night of drinking and we found this small store around the corner.  The shopkeep and his buddy (photo above, just a naturally bored and tired look) had a really cute puppy and another older dog and we ended up just staying in the store for 2+ hours chatting with the old guys about life and the history of Dandong, etc. drinking, and playing with the dogs.  It was really fun and a good chance to practice Chinese.

I eventually asked if I could take their photos and they were very willing to pose for the camera.

 

 

Photo below: Here is the shopkeeper eating some Fangbian Mian (Convenient Noodles) at about 3:30 am.

 

Photo Below:  Before we went to get the water we went to a club and danced a bit with some girls and strange men.  I believe I was actually in a dance off with a couple of them.  Odd, but good times.  I put my camera on a ledge and took this shot.  One of the strange guys was staring at me.

 

Dandong, Liaoning – Bordering North Korea

Last Wednesday, my friend Phil and I began a week long travel around Liaoning Province.  We started by taking a 4 hour bus north east of Dalian to Dandong.  I have a friendly, big-boned student named West who lives there.  He and his family were very good hosts.

Photo Above: So that’s Phil on the left, he is backed by the border of North Korea; and me on the right, with the skyline of Dandong behind me. We are on the Broken Bridge.  In 1950 Americans bombed this and other bridges along the Yalu river.  Now there is a new bridge next to the Broken Bridge and the BB is a tourist attraction.  We were lucky to have been there on such a lovely day.  Also I finally bought a polarizing filter for my camera so the clouds in the following photos all stand out much better in comparison to my Bingyugou photos.

Photo Below: The newly built bridge allowing trade between China and North Korea.

Photo Above:  a beautiful cloud hovers over Dandong

Photo Above: Head in the Clouds  – Phil took this, looks pretty cool

Photo Above:  A bullet hole from an American plane

Photo Above:  This is the end of the bombed bridge.  To the left is the new bridge.  Straight across is North Korea.  The land was quite pretty but it was very desolate.  Some people were on the beach but there was not alot of fun going on and certainly no advertising or buildings with anything familiar looking on them.  We loved the pepsi and coke umbrellas, almost teasing the DPR.  The next day we got even closer and rode a boat in North Korean water…post more tmr.  Also met some interesting shopkeepers and had a VERY interesting experience at ktv.  I’m getting pushed to go eat some shaokao, or bbq, by Phil and some other dudes we met at our hostel in Shenyang.  So i am off..

 

Above:  Cloud Sandwich

Below: Me with my student West.  His Chinese name is Wei Si (sounds like West).  It’s funny cuz he would always wear that really bright orange athletic shirt to class!  I would tease him about it bit I told him I liked it and it suited him.  It’s funny cuz before we got to the bus station in Dandong, I told Phil he would probably be wearing his orange shirt.  Of course he was, he said so we could recognize him.

 

Day Trip to Bingyugou(冰峪沟), The mini-Guilin Ice Valley in the North!

Two days ago, Luna and I took a day-trip to Bingyugou, a famous valley that is often said to be the mini-Guilin of the north because of its towering rock formations jutting out from rivers and small lakes.  It was also a celebratory trip as it was the one-year anniversary of our first date, which took place at Song Mountain in Luna’s hometown of Dengfeng.

It truly was an amazing nature park and the photo above was probably the most beautiful view of the day.  The sun  hadn’t shown all day but right as we entered the heart of the valley, it peaked out through the clouds and lit up the view above.  I realize that I need a polarizing filter on my camera so the clouds don’t get overexposed.  My landscape shots need work but I do the best I can, especially in post-shot editing using Aperture.

Photo Above:  Biker on Cornfield Road leading to Bingyugou

We took a supposed 2-hour bus at 7:30 am from Dalian but arrived at about 10:30.  It was a typical tourist driven small town with only one main road and a few roads intersecting it. It was quite deserted when we arrived.  There are maybe 8 or so small hotels in the area.  The first one we went to was the closest to the bus stop (well, the place in the middle of the town where the bus stopped) and a room cost 300 yuan.  We looked at it and it was shit so we decided to move on.  About a km ahead, at the end of town, we found another, bigger hotel and found the price was 150 yuan for a much nicer, cleaner, and western toilet included- instead of hole-in-the-ground- room.  We decided to skip lunch and make our way up the road (seen above) that eventually reached the valley entrance.  I took this shot as this xiaohuozi (young man) sped by, of course as he stared at me.  Later ,at the police station where they were checking my visa and passport for hotel insurance purposes, I talked with the friendly police officers (they offered me grapes and a banana which I hungrily ate up!) they told me only a couple of foreigners visit Bingyugou every year.  In fact, Luna and I did not spot another foreigner the whole day.

Photo Above: Painters by the River

Never seen anything like this in China.  A class of art students are being monitored by their teacher as they paint a scene by the river.  I took some photos and by then everyone was whispering, “look a foreigner!” and “with a chinese girl!” so I told a girl Piaoliang! which means beautiful and some of them said xie xie (thank you). It’s nice to see Chinese teens learning how to paint.

Photo Above: Forest Flow Scene

We walked a bit and came upon an area where we rented a bamboo raft for 100 yuan.  Luna and I rowed across the small river and docked the boat at a place where you could walk up to a waterfall within the mountain.  I saw this scene with the looped vine crossing the path of the flowing water and knew it would make a good photo.  Only trouble is I didn’t bring a tripod and the rocks around the area were all angled and slippery so it was very difficult to place my camera on a rock to keep it steady as the self timer took the shot.  I eventually got into the water and had to try to keep a steady hand to get this shot.  That’s why it’s not perfectly still.  A little disappointed about that, but it turned out not too bad.

Photo Below:  Dude on Bamboo Raft:  I loved that the fog was hovering just over the water.  It was quite a sight.

Photo Above: Bride View with Blue Sky

This was taken on the little bridge that you see in the first photo.  It was a very photogenic area and this was one of my better shots. You can see some people who rented a little raft paddling in the lake.

Photo Above: Mountain Reflection from Ferry Starboard

It was nice that we were allowed two free ferry rides, and there were no lines to wait in! I was hopping all around the uncrowded ferry trying to find a shot and this one came up.  I read that landscape images are all about the foreground item and this shot proves that it really does add a lot to the photo.  I choose the sepia tone here as well, just looks cool.

Photo Above: Split Rock Landscape B&W

A bit of a panoramic shot here to balance the fog with the lake.  This was also taken from the ferry. This whole area was filled with beautiful landscape like this.

Final photo is a shot of Luna and me.  I put the camera on self timer and we got this. Overall it was a good day and anniversary with Luna.

One more little anecdote – THE BUS:  The next morning we got up at 5:30 am to catch a ride on the 6:25 bus bike to Dalian – the only bus going back the whole day.  Well, of course we were expecting to pay the 55 yuan each and get a seat, but ohhhh nooo.  Not this bus.  It was already completely packed when we got on.

Imagine a tour bus, two rows of 20 pairs of seats and 5 in the back.  So enough seats to sit about 85 people, give or take.  When we boarded the bus, they were all full and there were about 10 kids squished in some of the seats.  Then there were about 15 people sitting on small stools down the middle aisle, nearly touching back to back.  Oh wait, there’s more – there were about 15 people standing up in front of the people seated in the aisle!  It was a very oh-f**k kind of situation.  But it got worse.  For the next 45 minutes the bus driver kept stopping and the two guys working the seating and ticket situation kept cramming people onto the bus.  Not shitting you, by the end of the 45 minutes their were more than 40 people (many with a baby in arms) standing up squished in down the aisle and on the steps of the two entrances.  I couldn’t move my knees (as they constantly jammed into an armrest of a seat) or lift my legs, and I couldn’t even put my hands down by my side because I was holding on for dear life (and Luna hanging on to me!) as the driver start-stopped and swiveled along a bumpy country road!  It was easily the worst ride of my life.  Thank gosh I had my phone and headphones to listen to music.  To pass the time I counted the people on the bus : I estimated about 135-145.  Unbelievable.  Only in China.

Oh, and then, a little girl who was with her mother and father, about 10 years old and about 5 feet from me, began crying hysterically.  She had to pee and she was uncomfortable.  So the bus stopped right?  Nope.  Not in China.  There is a bucket for this sort of thing.  From the second door a bus worker passed a bucket with empty bottles to the mother. She was telling her to squat and take a piss, but the girl wouldn’t.  So then she started yelling at her to do it.  And more yelling, right in the girl’s face.  Then she actually smacked her, many people were a bit appalled I think but nobody said anything, and actually it did shut her up.

The girl was whimpering now but not crying as she obviously saw she really disappointed her mother.  And she was a big woman, quite fat. The husband just looked worried and tried to condole her.  The girl did calm down but she didn’t go. So the bucket was passed back toward the middle door.  But then 10 minutes later it was passed back up.

A boy, also about 10 years old, had to piss as well.  He was in the seat with his mom and grandma a row ahead of me on my left. He took a bottle from the bucket and his mother held it steady (the bottle, ha) as he pissed. I closed my eyes and had a giggle.  Well, you can guess what happened next.  The girl must have felt confident because the boy pissed, so surely she could piss.  The bucket was passed back to her mother and she squatted over it and pissed (I didn’t watch, I closed my eyes and focused on the music).  The bucket was passed back to the middle door.

Quite uneventful after that, eventually, after about 2.5 hours standing up cramped amongst 40+ people, some people started exiting the bus on the outskirts of Dalian.  Luna and I eventually got a seat but it took another hour or so to reach a stop where we got off and walked home.  A nice shower was in order at home (oh, no towels or hot water in the hotel the night before, so I had a nice Polish shower with a washcloth and bar of soap bought at a small store) and a big breakfast.  Our day trip was ended, but it won’t be forgotten anytime soon.

 

Special word out to Brian Curry – thanks for the comment and congratulations, you are the first subscriber of my blog!  It’s cool to know that you are interested in my adventures here in China and I hope you get a laugh or some insight into the life I live and have lived over here for almost five years now.  Hope all is going well with you.  I see you are in Colorado Springs now, quite a nice place!  I have been there once with my family and it is a beautiful place but I would love to get my camera out there these days and shoot away.  Cheers to you and all my other viewers/readers.

Second Night at Dalian Beer Festival – Pavilion Hopping and Bizarre Food

Well, second Friday night at the 13th Annual Dalian Beer Festival was very interesting.  The first night we all went, we just stayed in the Paulaner tent the whole night and got smashed.  Last Friday we (my colleague Renzo, seen above, and ex-colleague Phil, both Aussies) went and explored a bit more, sitting at a tent, having a beer while watching various forms of entertainment and then moving on.

We saw this stall early in the evening but didn’t really want to take a closer look.  Then, after Renzo and I dared to try a crocodile kabob (very nice, see photo below), we felt very adventurous about trying new food.  So we meandered drunkenly to the bizarre food tent, I believe from Guangdong.  They had, amongst other foods, small scorpion kabobs (four per stick), large black scorpions, tarantulas, centipedes, beetles, grasshoppers, and other strange bugs.  As we were debating which bizarre food to eat, a shirtless Chinese man showed me how to eat a freshly fried grasshopper (wings and all) and then proceeded to stick the next one on the stick in my face until I ate it.  I couldn’t back down and really I don’t fear eating strange food so I ate the whole thing.  It was very salty and crunchy but nothing disgusting about the taste, just the wings texture was quite strange.

Renzo and I decided to go for the large black scorpion.  They just fried it up and put some spices on it and gave us the stick.  I picked off the tail pincer and then we dug in – I ate the meat from inside the legs first (similar to a crab) and then just ripped apart the body and sucked the meat from inside.  It wasn’t so bad, again, the spices and salt overpowered the taste.  Also I was quite drunk.  But, no stomach problems at all and three new foods tried, so a successful experience I must say.

 

We went to the Russian tent and there were some Russian pop singers – the women was quite beautiful but the men were awkward and couldn’t really keep the attention of the drunks.  The dancers were disappointing as well, they had baggy clothes on!  Why no bikini shows like some of the Chinese beer pavilions?   What a pity.   Anyways, I took the below photo of a couple at the Russian pavilion and the other photo is a Chinese pop singer.  Dudes head kind of ruins the pic but it’s not easy to get unobstructed photos at a Beer Festival.

 

Dalian Laowai FC (大连老外 )Team Photo

Well, we got new uniforms and we finally won a game yesterday – 6-0!   This is the Dalian Laowai Football Club, a team composed of the most talented and football crazy foreigners in Dalian.  We are currently playing in a knock out tournament and after losing the last two week’s games, we put a whopping on a much weaker team yesterday afternoon and the score really could have been 8,9, or 10 goals to nil.  I got to play the last 30 minutes and was really tired just from that.  I still don’t have match fitness after a month with an injured foot.

Players on the team and their home country: Back row from left to right : Me (USA), Calvin (Nigeria), Roman (Russia), Misha (Russia), Caesar (Nigeria), Scott (Scotland), Malick (Senegal/USA), Romain (France) / Bottom row left to right: Phil (England), Julio (Mozambique), Ahmed (Cameroon), Marigawa (Japan), Elchin (Azerbaijan), Samuel (Ghana), Ernest (Cameroon), John (Liberia), Peric (Cameroon)

Dalian Beer Festival 2011 – Opening Friday Night

Well the 13th Annual Dalian Beer Festival kicked off last Thursday night and I went with a group of friends on Friday.  It takes place in Xinghai Square, which is the largest square in Asia, so plenty of room.  It was a huge place and there was a great atmosphere there. although funny thing is we only stayed and drank at one tent area!

We got to the Paulaner tent at around 6:30 and got a decent seat to watch the live entertainment, the highlight being a band from Germany who know all about playing to drunken crowds (Octoberfest in Germany).  There was also a swimsuit model show and a Michael Jackson impersonator.  By 8:30 it was absolutely packed and there were no seats at all, so we didn’t want to venture out. The beer was great there too.  The steiner above cost 80 yuan per.

Luna is just posing with the glass for the photo; she sipped the beer but she is absolutely disgusted with the taste of beer!  She had a good time though and so did I and all my friends and people I met.  I’ll try and post the best of the rest on Flickr when I’ve finished editing the photos.

 

Small Mosh Pit at Huangdao Beach Music Festival

After checking out the Golden Sand Beach area in the Huangdao suburb of Qingdao, we went to the second day (of three) of the 2011 Huangdao Beach Music Festival.  It was in a strange location in the middle of nowhere, at a recently built medieval influenced outdoor shopping plaza.  All the buildings were empty but at the end of the plaza there was one big stage blocked off with construction fences.  It cost 50 yuan for a ticket.  The concert went from 2 to 11 pm.  We got there around 4:30 or so.

About the music and photo:  Well, the first act was a Swedish guy jumping around rapping slowly in English while what looked like his gf played loops on a computer behind him.  Not too exciting but not terrible.  We arrived at the end.  The stage was set up around 100 meters from the ocean (on concrete in the plaza, we were hoping it would be on sand though).  But it was a peaceful environment and there were lots of young, hip Chinese and foreigners casually strolling around, sipping on keg beers and taking photos.  There were actually TONS of photographers there.  Almost more than people who would call fans.  Especially during the second act.

The second act was a heavy metal act.  I mean death metal, like the small Chinese singer was screaming sounds out like Satan possessed him. I don’t like this particular style of music but I had never heard it at a concert, and I was pleasantly surprised and very entertained.  Luna had a face of disgust the whole time and couldn’t really bear to listen to it after 15 minutes.  I think I liked it because I have respect for the talents of the the guitar players, bass player, drummer and petite but throaty singer.  Also the fans.  The PHOTO above was taken during a mini mosh moment.  Half of the maybe 20 hardcore fans lined up on one side and the other half on the other and then they charged into each other, full steam ahead.  I captured this shot as they kind of bounced off each other.  Besides that, they ran around in circles holding hands and pushing anyone in their way, they did a couple crowd surfs and the whole time they waved these two giant flags that looked a bit anarchist.  I guess I didn’t think the Chinese had it in them.

Interesting note, one of the kids took his shirt off and when I was looking a photo of him I saw a tattoo on his arm with a drawing of China and words under that said “Made in China”.  Quite the irony but I take it that kid understands a bit more about his country than most.

Anyways, the next act was a alternative 4 piece whose music I thought was quite good.  A little like unsophisticated and more punky Vampire Weekend.  Then there was a five piece chillwave group who had quite a sexy singer, although she was a bit stage shy I think because she never really got the crowd moving.   Only the metal singer had the crowd enthralled the whole time.  It was great though because I was literally resting my backpack on the stage as I took photos.  So it was cool being able to get so close to the performers. We had to catch the last bus back to Qingdao so we left after that group and got back to our hotel around 10:00.  Overall, it was an enjoyable evening and nice to hear some live music.  The quality wasn’t too bad either and I’m sure if I had been there the whole three days I would have seen more good shows.  Maybe next year I’ll try to make it to all three days.

To see the rest of my best-of shots from the event, go here:  FLICKER BEACH FESTIVAL PHOTOS

Massive Back Tattoo on Beach Worker, Huangdao, Shandong

 

I took quite a few photos on and of the Huangdao Beach, and this was one of my favorites. Huge warrior tattoo, quite cool and I guess okay for a guy who makes his living on the beach (I added definition in my post-editing work to emphasize the tattoo).  This guy was the husband of a woman who we rented a table and umbrella from.  She was a conniving, money-hungry bitch to say the least.  She wanted 100 for table but we talked her down to 40 (grumbling and eye-rolling), we had to rent a ring float for 15 (it went flat while swimming and she blamed us and barely allowed us to rent another one), she told us it was 20 for a cheap cucumber dish but it turned out it was only 10 on the menu, and we also ordered food but they came back and told us we ordered too little so they couldn’t bring it to us! Lots of people on the beach were biased against foreigners and they take us for a fool and then disrespected Luna and her sister because they were with us.  Makes me frustrated and I’m getting really sick of being looked at like an alien.

I’ll be posted up best of Qingdao photos on Flickr soon.  I’m back in Dalian now and it’s nice to be home and away from the hectic, almost disgusting atmosphere of being in transit in China.  Makes me want to go to Switzerland of Canada and just be remote from it all for awhile.  Especially because it is honestly quite impossible to do so here.  My goal for the next month is to write a book.  I will take it as work and have a writing schedule everyday and try to get out the first draft, inspired by the line from Finding Forrestor, “write the first draft with your heart, the second with your head.”